An American follows her Australian husband to the end of the Earth...also known as Perth. This is what your guidebooks won't or can't tell you.
Monday, September 23, 2013
Spring Wildflowers in Western Australia
There are some really interesting natural wonders to see and enjoy here in Western Australia: walking amongst the giant Tingle trees in the south, picnic under a giant sheep's testicles, watch whales migrate, play hide-and-go-seek amongst the Pinnacles, feed the dolphins at Monkey Mia, camp at the magical Karijini National Park, get gritty in the natural resources of the Kimberley or buy lovely pearls in far north Broome. Each is a day's drive from the next--an unfortunate reality in a state as huge as WA--making a 'tour of the sights' possible only for those with lots of free time.
Everlastings
Overlooked in all of this is the most accessible and wild -- the spring wildflowers. Popping up all over starting in May way up north to November in the deep south, the state is carpeted with over 12,000 varieties of flora, 60% of which are exclusive to WA. We're talking deep shag carpet here, folks. A small child could get eaten up in a field of tall everlastings. An orchid fan consumed by their search for the Queen of Sheba amongst all the Donkeys. And so many other flowers- their beauty unsung by poets- smile for those who get off the road and are willing to take a walk. All rather miraculous
Queen of Sheba orchid
really. Much of WA is more hard scrabble than hospitable to plant life. Ever hear of the red dirt of a "sunburnt land"? Yep, that's us. And yet, nature shines on despite adversity.
We recently took our first drive to see this annual miracle. A northern loop from Perth that went up to Geraldton, over to Mullewa , down through Perenjori and Dalwallinu, side step to Three Springs before dropping into Moora. The wildflower guidebooks promised much and I always enjoy staying at country pubs. The lack of steady winter rain reduced the intensity of the flora this year but I was not disappointed. I was happy to take what I could get. Besides, we lucked out in that
Fringed Lily
two communities were holding flower shows that weekend. Cool beans! They were different from my usual flower show. Mullewa's show set up little agri-scapes to highlight the flora and fauna found in the area. OK, the birds were caged but each section was like its own little bushwalk. Funny, I've never thought Australian flowers to have much fragrance but there was a "distinctive smell of bush" (so described the show Steward) in the hall which I can only translate to 'Australian forest'. They had historical displays to augment the agri-scapes. Three Springs had vased samples of flora on tables but also had a community art exhibition. Attendees got to vote on their favorite photograph, drawing or painting in various classes. Some were even for sale. I was lucky enough to find a pretty gum leaf watercolor painting for $45 that looks perfect in my livingroom.
Wreath Flower
The true rock star of the tour was the wreath flower, which is having a bumper crop this year. Shaped like a wreath, this is a single flower from a single tap root that grows in the hard packed earth near roads. A less likely place to thrive I cannot imagine but the roads to everywhere seemed to have at least a few. Truly sensational. I have been hearing for years that picking native wildflowers is illegal in this state. Yet I was seeing plenty of picked native flowers. So what is the deal? Some said picking on your own private property is OK, just not on public lands. Others said no!, only flowers you have cultivated are OK. And the final word came from the Western Wildflower Farm in Coomberdale who said all of the above are wrong. They have to have licenses to grow, harvest, sell, package and ship native wildflowers regardless of where they are located. Oh, it sounds like a complicated business, especially when government is involved.
Donkey Orchids
I do fancy another wildflower trip but to the south. The soil and landscape is so different from the red desert of the north and so are the flowers. Orchid aficionados are quite happy to be hunting in these parts. Little known is that the area around Fitzgerald River National Park has been declared a Biodiversity reserve hotspot worthy of watching and protecting by UNESCO. I wonder why Tourism WA doesn't push the spring wildflower season more in its publicity about the state. The rocks at the Pinnacles will always be there but the annual spring flora is worth the trip in from anywhere.
OZ is the third foreign country I have lived/worked in--if you dont count life on a cruise ship. I started my professional life in television, moved into Tourism and Hospitality and mixed it up with a bit of world travel. So I have lots of stories to tell-but not all at once! Ah, the life of an artiste and vagabond. ;-)
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