Broome, in the northwest corner of Western Australia, is an area once trod by dinosaurs and now stampeded by tourists. And with good reason. When rural Australia turns into remote Australia, a pleasant oasis is a secret that cannot and should not be kept. Travel & Tourism marketers have a field day with Broome delights and I was hoping to catch a few of them on a recent business trip here.
Broome is remarkably, and unexpectedly, tiny. All of the the thrills and highlights mentioned in marketing materials gives the impression that it is a huge area. In truth, good legs and a local shuttle bus will get you from the airport, hotel, every attraction and back to the airport without great exertion. And this can be a good thing especially for those time or cash poor as rarely in remote Australia is anything close by or inexpensive.
The pearling industry and a wonderful beach started as the main attractions. The Japanese were first to come in and search for the golden South Sea Australian pearl and ultimately culture pearls in the ocean. These highly coveted beauties are not cheap but, oh, do I dream...
Camel rides on Cable Beach at sunset are also a hallmark of this area. The sunsets are gorgeous from any vantage point. A particular phenomenon is the Stairway to the Moon sunsets occuring about three times a month. The stair case looks horizontal on the ocean leading to the great golden orb dropping below the water's edge. During the day at low tide, beachcombing the white sand for interesting shells is a great diversion. The aquamarine water looks so inviting but at the hottest time of year no one goes in the water. A highly toxic blue jellyfish is a plague upon the ocean between October and April -- just when people want to escape the heat.
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Gantheaume Point
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How about a little prehistoric sightseeing? Gantheaume Point, at the southern end of Cable Beach, fossilized dinosaur footprints are embedded in the craggy, red rocks overlooking the ocean. Seen only at very low tide, casts have been made of them and placed at a safer location for gawking. Geology is rarely more prominently displayed than at the strata of the falling rocks here at Gantheaume Point.
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boab tree |
Also seeming to reach back to the past is the iconic boab tree - here with many nuts hanging from its branches. Thriving where water levels are not high, the boab tree somehow seems to complement the equally ubquitous palm trees. Desert meets tropical here in Broome. The boab nut has seeds in it - eaten mostly by aboriginal elders who still like their bush tucker over sweet strawberries from the market. These nuts become very lightweight when dried and aboriginal artists carve pictures onto them. This nut hardly needs decoration. He looks quite happy the way he is. Step into another icon of Broome- Sun Pictures. An outdoor "garden theater" and the oldest of its kind. Built in 1914 and still as it was originally, you can watch a movie under the stars or under the corrugated metal half-roof from a sling chair. The movie "Australia" had a scene from just such a theater. There is a modern cinema somewhere but I prefer this Chinatown fixture for a movie experience.
Oh dear, my business trip is over and I have yet to see the Japanese cemetery (where all the headstones are written in Chinese- the language of the headstone maker) or Croc World or the Willie Creek Pearl Farm or the inside of the Walangari Sober Up Centre. O.K., maybe that last one isn't a must see. My work is at the Courthouse- a historical site in its own right. It started out as the cable house for transoceanic telegraphy. Its corrugated metal structure with decorative wrought iron rails makes it the most unique courthouse I've been in.
Broome -- gateway to the Kimberley --is a great spot to spend a little time. Some of the best things come in small packages.